Baikal and Buryatia


[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]


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Lake Baikal has many rivers flowing into it, but only one flowing out: the mighty Angara. This latter flows out with such a powerful stream, that even in the coldest winter, the initial kilometer of the river never freezes. To the left in this picture, the frozen surface of Lake Baikal.
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The ice is usually two meters thick on the lake, in places even more. Enough to support heavy duty transport across its surface, which becomes a convenient highway.
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On clear days (which are the rule in winter thanks to the siberian anticyclone), it is easy to see the other bank of the lake towards the East, only about 40 km away in this point. In the North-South direction however, lake Baikal extends for almost 700 km. It is about 1.6km deep, and it alone contains about 20% of the fresh water in the world (more than the north-american Great Lakes combined).
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Lake Baikal and the surrounding taiga on a calm winter day. What could be more effective in describing the heart of Siberia?
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The ubiquitous tourist happily spoiling the background.
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The village of Listvyanka. Here many people from the big city Irkutsk have their summer dacias, but in winter it's a quiet atmosphere.
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On the road to Listvyanka, a small museum is dedicated to Lake Baikal. In these days of difficult economy, it's run only thanks to the enthusiasm of a few, and its run-down appearance from outside can be deceiving. Inside however, there's a wealth of information and specimens. Lake Baikal is home to the nerpa (phoca sibirica), a seal found only here.
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Dawn casts long shadows over the houses and laboratories of the Mondy astronomical observatory, at the southern border of Buryatia.
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Astronomers begin their daily routines at the solar telescope, housed in this dome with an original design.
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South across the fence, lie the frozen, motionless plains of Mongolia. The border is patrolled daily by Red Army soldiers, that walk up and down along it for kilometers. In winter, temperatures and winds make this less than pleasant a stroll.
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The Sayan mountain range presents itself with a beautiful view.
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The ubiquitous tourist braves a temperature of -35C for yet one more souvenir picture.
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In the early morning of a cold winter day, Ulan Ude is not very welcoming. The capital of Buryatia boasts the largest statue-head of Mr. Lenin in Russia (and presumably the world).
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The Hodigitria Cathedral in downtown Ulan-Ude. The state in which this monument is left is really a shame, expecially since inside it there is supposedly a collection of art works but it was impossible to enter. The park in front has a children playground where the little ones have a great time even in winter. It is also a meeting point for some interesting characters, which will always pull out a bottle of vodka (or so they say) from up their sleeve and crack the most unbelievable stories. If you are game, be prepared to meet the whole neighbourhood.
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The Ivolginsk datsan, or buddhist temple. Buryatia is largely buddhist (like neighbouring Mongolia), and Ivolginsk is the largest centre of this religion in the russian territory. The complex is interesting more for its colors than for its architecture, but inside the temples (sorry, no photos allowed) there are some beautifil statues. Try to visit it with a local to learn the interesting story of this temple.
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The main temple in the Ivolginsk complex.
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A view from the top over Ulan-Ude.
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The East- and West-bound Transiberian trains cross each other at the Ulan-Ude station.
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The frozen Selenga river provides relaxing walks and convenient shortcuts in the heart of the city.

Travelogue

[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]

I visited in February/March 1997. While Irkutsk is really a big city, easy to reach and featured on all the guide books, I enjoyed more Ulan-Ude for its different atmosphere and the peculiarity of its mixed russian-buryat population. A tip: try to avoid the relics of soviet-style hotels such as the Baikal and the Buryatia, unless you are interested in a taste of true no-service attitude. These are intended mostly for russian burocrats and group tours in the summer. The clerks will look down on you if you are a lonely foreigner. I had a relatively good stay at the Geser hotel, also centrally located. Although I must say that in my 4-days stay I never slept in my hotel bed once... If you make friends with the locals, you'll be invited to "tea-times" that last till dawn. Be prepared, and always take a bottle with you.
Useful Bits

[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]

The unit of currency in Buryatia, as in the rest of Russia, is the rouble. The rouble does not have official quotations outside Russia, and in recent times it has been affected by a couple of currency crashes. For travellers, it is advisable to monitor often the exchange rate and not to change all your money at one time.
Here is a few maps:
Here are some useful links (note that many servers have both russian and english pages, or sometimes just russian):
Concluding bla-bla

[Pictures] [Travelogue] [Useful bits] [Conclusions]

My special thanks to Vadim and his family!
This page was created using a photo camera, a scanner, some freeware, and lots of patience. Click here for a list of details and acknowledgments.

Created by A. Richichi, last modified: 15/07/99. Here is my homepage. If you want to know more details (such as places to stay, to eat, to avoid, and other travel tips) send me an e-mail, but first make sure to remove nospam_ from the address. If you liked this page, wouldn't you send me a postcard from the place where you live? Thanks!

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