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On the streets of Cebu. This is the second city in the Philippines,
and supposedly the hub for travels in the central part of the archipelago.
I got stuck there for three days before finding a means to get away to
where I wanted, and I did not enjoy much of it.
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Alona beach on Bohol island turned out to be a disappointment. The beach is
very long, but overcrowded with "resorts" which serve basically as a base
for zillions of tourists with a diving monomania, mostly from central
and northern Europe. If you want to spend all your time with german
and swedish buddies, drinking beer and eating wurst while you check out
each other's latest dive computer, that's the place for you. But be
ready to pay for it.
The beach itself sucks, but in fact some of the diving spots that they
take you to are excellent.
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The Chocolate Hills in the central part of Bohol are well worthy the
couple of hours drive from Tagbilaran, with some interesting stops
along the way. The hills, formerly coral formations on the bottom of
the ocean, make for an impressive view, expecially if one considers that
they cover an area much larger than the eye can see. If they were in
the USA, they would be a serious competitor to the Grand Canyon in the
book of superlatives.
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Crossing a bridge makes a nice photo shot for
the grandchildren.
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Washing time. Life in the inner parts of Bohol, away from the
major tourist flow, is a far cry away from the Alona Beach style.
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The intrepid tourists are about to brave the river.
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Not many people live along this river in the interior of Bohol,
and a boat with 6 western
tourists is a sight to see.
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The lifestyle
is not exactly the same as in Manila. Yet, wherever you go, you'll
always find a basketball court, the biggest craze of young Filipinos.
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Schools are closed in May, but these kids sure do not regret it. They
are practicising the stunts for the next Tarzan movie.
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About to cross over to Cabilao. From there, it's a short motorcycle
hop to the northern side, where the best beaches are.
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Fishing in Cabilao.
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A view from the old lighthouse at the northern side of Cabilao.
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The beaches are nice, and not many tourists. In fact, in the beginning
of June, I was the only one at the place where I stayed...
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... and made friends quickly.
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The big ferry (oh well) to Cebu island leaves twice a week
directly from Cabilao. Some passengers are a bit reluctant to
board and it takes some art to convince them. Later during the
crossing, the cow, the goat and the pig engaged in a
scatological competition, a real festival of colors and smells.
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On Palawan, the penitentiary is not far from Puerto Princesa, but
can be reached only if you hire a trycicle. This is a peculiar prison,
with no walls and fences. Inmates here work the fields for their own
food, and make handicraft. Families can visit and it looks more like
a workers village, until you start asking people why they are there:
my guide was serving 16 years for drugs, and he wasn't very happy that
his term was almost over. Many of them have no better place to go.
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On another location on the prison ground, I was introduced
to two odd friends.
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The baby monkey had lost its mother, and was being raised by the
puppy's mother. Naturally, the baby monkey felt that was her brother
and wouldn't let go of him for a second. The puppy however did not seem so
enthusiastic about it.
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Another short trycicle ride from Puerto Princesa, is Honda Bay
with tens of islands, most of them deserted. If you hire a banca
(a small fishing boat), you can go and visit all that you like...
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... and have a chance to see where they shot Bay Watch.
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Snake island in Honda Bay.
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OK so I wanted a postcard picture.
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Just pick your island.
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The only island in Honda Bay which actually has
some facilities.
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The infamous jeepney, during a stop on the 8 hours trip from
Puerto Princesa to Port Barton. No trip in the Philippines could
be complete, without some hours on one of these creations of
local inventive. Bring a towel for the dust and sweat, and pray
that they don't haul fish and live pigs on the roof on the day
you are travelling.
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Port Barton at last. The beach is a nice sight during the day...
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... and even a better one at sunset.
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I decided to splurge and stayed in this nice bungalow by the beach in Port Barton.
Which was a major tactical mistake, since Port Barton is a fishermen
village, and sure enough every morning before sunrise the beach
turned into a carneval of screams, calls, diesel engines and barking dogs.
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While the beach in Port Barton is nice and excellent for swimming,
when it comes to diving it sucks. However, you can hire a banca
and pick your own private island in the bay.
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It's called the Thousand Island bay with good reason, and essentially
all of them are desert...
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... except for the occasional ubiquitous tourist.
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Another unforgettable trip by jeepney, and I land in Roxas,
on the opposite coast of Palawan across from Port Barton.
The street life may be interesting, but the main reason to
go there is to cross over to...
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Coco Loco island, which is a tourist trap where it is unusually
delightful to be trapped. At least in June, there are almost no
tourists. One reason could be the food: you have no choice but
to eat at the resort's restaurant, and they seem to know that.
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The island is a few hundred meters across, with white beaches...
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... and surrounded for the most part by a coral reef within
easy swimming distance. The reef is interesting, although it does
not hold the comparison to other places in Palawan or Bohol.
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The nice thing is that even at the beginning of the wet season,
the thunderstorms stay on Palawan at the horizon, and don't spoil
the scene on Coco Loco.
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If you want to leave Palawan (or shall we say if you really have to),
chances are you'll have to go through Manila. If you decide to take
the ship, you'll be in one of these. It's nice inside...
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... but maybe you are not allowed to take your favorite pet with you.
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Another hop by bus, ship and jeepney,
and I'm in Puerto Galera in northern Mindoro. A bit of
disappointment, because the place turned out to be a major
tourist destination and decidedly overcrowded. But with a
short tricycle ride...
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... you can get away from it all. Just nearby there are some
wonderful beaches.
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Which made it all worthy.
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Just choose your own.
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